Olds 425 Motor Build....... (Page 4)

My buddy is letting me put the motor together in his "motor room", there are lots of tools here, the beer fridge is in here, and a stereo, so with ZZ Topp blasting away....

UPDATE #4: Got some mellow Hawaiian music crankin' thru the shop today, and had to work on a thermo/water neck outlet for the motor, the stock water neck goes straight ahead into the blower drive, and an aftermarket swivel water neck is up a 45 deg angle and hits the blower, so I had another aluminum water neck, that I chopped off the hose connection at 22 deg, then chopped the first neck hose connection off at 22 deg, fitted the pieces together to get my 89 (22 + 22 gave me a 44, on top of the initial 45......), and I was able to angle the neck away from the blower drive. Took a bit of work but it came out nice. Chased down some barbed 1/8" by npt fittings for the vacuum/boost lines at the manifold, now need to find some 1/8" tubing and start plumbing that up.....

I'll look for a hose to fit after getting both the motor and the radiator back in the car.....





UPDATE #3: Dug through my Olds junk parts boxes and dug out a couple of alternator mount brackets, ended up cutting up two and making a nice solid bracket to mount the alternator to match a V-belt to the front pulley on the crank, which matched the middle pulley on the water pump, after I put in the 1/8" spacer. Also found one of the Olds oil filter brackets in one of the junk piles, so cleaned it up and mounted it....

Also drilled some holes in the valve covers and installed two breathers on each side....

Am not too happy about the crankcase breather setup I have right now, want to improve on that....

Installed the distributor and cut and installed the spark plug wires....

Wanted up to five vacuum ports available if I wanted to hook everything up, and I hate tees:

2, remote vacuum sensing for each carb (a must)

1, vacuum sensing for the MSD boost retard unit (another must)

1, vacuum sensing for the vacuum/boost meter in the dash (Yup!)

1,vacuum sensing for the vacuum advance on the distrubutor (not right now, will lock out the distributor for the initial run....)

So I drilled and tapped two 1/8" NPT holes in the front of the manifold, and three in the rear....

Stuffed rags inside, used the shop vac inside next to the hole while drilling and tapping the threads, kept it nice and clean, no metal got inside the motor....

Plugged 'em for now with brass plugs, but will install the 1/8" npt by barbed fittings for the tubing when I stick the motor in the car and start plumbing this whole system up....









UPDATE #2: Got some blues playing today, some BB King, Buddy Guy, Robert Johnson, Otis Redding, some other favorites......

I finally got the modified oil pan to fit nicely around the corners of the girdle side rails, had to hand file it to get the fit I wanted, so I mounted the deeper high volume Melling oil pump and pickup (it finally came in the mail...), checked the depth with the 7 qt oil pan, about a 1/4" off the bottom of the pan, perfect! So I proceeded to glue down the pan gasket pieces to the block and the girdle side rails using Permatex "The Right Stuff!"....

I'll use some high temp red rtv silicone only on the four "corners" of the pan and also the four "corners" of the girdle when I bolt down the pan....

The "2nd gen." Olds V8 motors ('65 - '76) included two different 400 ci (the early version, '65-'67, 4" x 3.975" bore and stroke is the desireable one), a 425 ci (4.125" x 3.975" b & s), and a 455 ci (4.125" x 4.250" b & s). The 425 and 455 blocks were essentially the same, with a shorter stroke crank in the 425, but it is a forged steel crank, very desireable! The early 400 ci also had that same forged crank, but with a smaller bore.

The two oil main galleries in the blocks have plugs in the front behind the timing chain. The early blocks up to '67 had oil squirt holes drilled in them (about a 1/16") to keep the timing chain lubed. For some reason in '68 to '76 Olds only drilled one of the front plugs, reducing the amount of lube for the timing chain. Many feel that the timing chain wore out faster in those blocks, so most hipo Olds builders drill the other plug so both will squirt oil. The plugs I put in my '67 block came out of a '70 block (couldn't find the original '67 plugs), so I drilled the second plug 1/16", you can see it on the left side plug in this pix, the right side plug in the photo has the oem hole....

As this is a roller cam, I need a thrust button on the front of the cam to keep "cam walk" down to a minimum. That brass button fits on a smooth steel stud machined on the front of the cam bolt, allowing me to grind off the end of it to get the necessary clearance between the brass button and the timing cover. I ground it until I got about a 0.005" clearance with the brass button installed using a steel rule across the front of the block. With the cover gasket at about 0.020" thickness, that gives me about 0.025" clearance for the cam thrust button, I'm happy with that!

You can also see a baffle plate inserted into keeper ridges in the block in the lower right corner of this pix. The oil filler tube fits in on that and the baffle helps keep some of the blow-by contained in the block and out the breathers. Look at the photo above, that baffle has not been installed yet in that pix.

I also ran into a problem with the oil dipstick hitting the girdle, so I decided I didn't need that dipstick tube to be that long, and chopped off all of it that was hanging below the block.....

No problem getting that dipstick in now!

Now that the cam thrust button is installed, and the oil gallery plugs are both drilled, I can button up the front of the motor, and install the water pump and pulleys....

Pulled out my box of water pump pulleys and tried several, these fit the best, but needed a 1/8" spacer to get the best alignment against the pulleys Don Hampton provided with the blower drive....

I might decide to shorten that oil filler tube also, haven't decided on that yet, will decide after the blower in on and I can take a good look at it....

Directly below that oil filler tube is where that baffle plate was installed inside the timing case (see pix above).....

Got out my hole saws and drill bits and made myself a spacer for the water pump pulleys out of a piece of 1/16" scrap I had in my junk pile....



UPDATE #1: Painted the pan and began the task of fitting the pan and a gasket around the girdle side rails..........

Using Cometic gaskets, they are heavy duty, and as I need to cut them, no metal in the pan gasket....

Also using Cometic on the head gaskets, they are a three layer all metal embossed gasket, supposed to be excellent for blown applications.....

Link To Cometic Gaskets

The pan fits too tight at the ends of the girdle side rails, so will have to hand file a bit to loosen it up a little. Right now it is way too difficult to get the pan on and off of the girdle side rails....

I will also put a thin layer of "The Right Stuff", by Permatex, under those gasket pieces to hold them in place on the block. I'll use silicone sealer around the corners and places where oil is prone to leak, but will not "glue down" the whole pan.....

More Later!

Here's some links to more pix....

Assembling The Blower Motor (page 3)

Assembling The Blower Motor (page 2)

Reworking an Olds 425 to take a 6-71 huffin on it. (Page 1)

Some Interior Views, Seats Modified and Upholstered!!!

Fabbing A Pair Of Drive Shaft Safety Hoops

Working On The Fuel System

Patching Up Some Of The Sheet Metal Holes.....

Building A Set Of Fenderwell Headers....

Adding A Front Sway Bar......

Twelve Point Cage Build Coming Along, Finally Done....

Dog Dish Hubcaps? Air Filter Rain Covers? Looks Good To Me........

Setting Up The Rear Axle and Suspension page 2

Setting Up The Rear Axle and Suspension page 1

Cutting A Hole In The Hood, and Setting The Fenders....

Installing The Radiator

Setting Up The Tilt Front End

Setting Up The Steering and Suspension 2

Setting Up The Steering and Suspension

Setting Up The Front Axle 2

Setting Up The Front Axle 1

The Mad Frame Whacker Attacks......

Starting to Fit Parts Here and There

Narrowing The Front Axle

Found This Ford F100 Front Axle

Trial fit for the 6-71, a Don Hampton special.

Pulled apart a '67 Olds 400 motor for spare parts.....

Did Some Porting Work on some Edelbrock Olds Heads

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