Olds 425 Motor Build....... (Page 5)

UPDATE #4 for this page......

The gasket under the front of the intake manifold popped out a little on one corner, and was leaking oil down the front of the block that was blowing back onto the headers, messy!!!

Remove the piece that was hanging out, cleaned it up as best I could with lacquer thinner, and managed to fill in the opening with some of "The Right Stuff", let it cure overnight, and after a day at the track it still was not leaking, so I think it will hold up ok. Not the prettiest thing in the world, but it is working.....



UPDATE #3 for this page......

Got the motor and tranny in the car, now for the fuel, elec., radiator, headers, other hookups, and finish up the gage connections, then hopefully fire it up and tune it before the 18th, and I can get some test and tune runs in down at our local track!!!!



UPDATE #2 for this page.....

I was concerned about how well my tranny was going to align with the pilot bearing and the crankshaft, so I pulled out the clutch and the pivot pin for the throwout bearing arm and set up a dial indicator to check it out.....

Ran my dial indicator on the hole of the blo bell where the tranny fits in to see how the alignment was with the crankshaft. It's an aluminum flywheel, so had to set it up like this to get a good register of the dial indicator on the tranny hole in the bell....

Got a reading every 45 deg., setting the dial indicator at zero on position #1. Had total readings of max plus .003" and minus .007", total of .010", the actual misalignment is half of that, or .005", which is the maximum recommended misalignment without having to adjust it with offset dowel pins, so I am good to go on this alignment.

Next I wanted to check out the face of the blo bell where the tranny bolts up, had to use this setup to get a good reading........

There was only .004" out of alignment on the face of the bell, maximum recommended is .015", so I am good to go with this bell and the stock dowel pins.

Time to put the clutch in and install the tranny......

Put in all the bolts for the two halves of the blo bell (there's a flat plate against the block, behind the flywheel, that matches up to the bell itself), looks like overkill to me, but it it will contain a clutch explosion, I'm all for it!!!



UPDATE #1 for this page:

Still had a couple days before heading off to the mainland, so got some more work done.....

Figured out a way to extend the clutch arm pivot ball, started long with this threaded extension piece, and a little at a time shortened it, the grade 8 bolt through the bell, and the pivot ball stud, until I had clutch throw-out bearing and clutch arm action I liked the looks of. The two bolts meet in the middle of the extension piece. Didn't have a good reference dimension to aim for, so just "eyeballed", will see how well I did....

Once I got it where I wanted, I whacked off the grade 8 bolt on the back side of the bell, and cut a screwdriver slot in it. Then, to make damn sure, I used red locktite on all the threads. There is a jamb nut for the ball stud, but with this setup the jamb nut interfered with the springs on the clutch arm at the pivot point, so decided to leave the jamb nut off vs taking any more off the extension piece. It is tightened down pretty good and with the locktite it should be ok.....

Also cut off the ear on the starter area of the bell, and trimmed a little of the starter mount block, there was plenty of stock there to do that.

Now I have to lengthen the lower bell crank arm about 3/4" and shorten the throw-out rod to the clutch arm....

That's the original '55 six cylinder bell crank, and the original motor side ball, I fabbed a mount for the Olds motor that matches the original frame side ball so I can use this original bell crank....

Also had to run a tap through the four tranny mount holes, paint etc in there did not give good register for the grade 8, 1/2" x 1-1/2" bolts, and one of the mount ears on the tranny did not register accurately with the bolt hole in the bell (could have been the Lakewood bell hole that was off....), so got the rattail file out and improved it........

I used the three bolts that matched up their tranny holes to the bell threads and registered the bell against the tranny, by threading them in all the way from inside the bell, then matching the bell up to the tranny, then running a tap through the offending hole from the inside, as the tap engaged the tranny mount ear, it registered cut marks on the side of the ear that needed clearancing, filed and recheck several times until I got it precisely right, it bolted up nice and snug and the tranny registered nicely against the bell....

Filing and matching that hole was a time consuming, hot and sweaty job for a Saturday afternoon, needed lots of fluid replacement......

Should have registered (fitted) the bell and tranny against the back of the motor and the pilot bearing without the clutch on, as I am now having trouble getting the tranny to go all the way in. Had the appropriate plastic plug to align the clutch disk with the pilot bearing when I bolted the clutch on, seemed to line up nicely, and the tranny goes in far enough to think I have ragistered with the splines in the clutch disk, so am thinking I have some misalignment with the pilot bearing.

Probaly means I need to pull the clutch off and put the tranny/bell back on to see if I am getting good pilot bearing alignment. With that blo-bell it is so enclosed it is difficult to get a good look to see what is happening....

Might even need more fluid replacement, looks like a hot, sweaty job....











PREVIOUSLY:

Still boltin' parts on this Olds 425 block, working on the tranny end now, got the motor off the stand and "on the hook", setting up the flywheel, clutch and blo-bell.....

Had a couple of steel flywheels around, but ended up getting a McLeod aluminum flywheel, 12 lbs!, we'll see how well it runs with that light flywheel, I can always put on of my steel ones on later if that light one causes any problems....

Decided on the Centerforce DFX ceramic clutch setup....

Lakewood Blo-Bell to complete the assembly....

There are some fitment problems with this clutch arm and throw-out bearing I got from Lakewood, stock GM style arm, short bearing, with the pivot ball and stud adjusted as far forward as it will go safely, still not making contact with the clutch fingers. And my Z-bar rod interferes with those ears on the side of the blo-bell. The starter is block mount style, so I can cut off those ears to get clearance, and move the lower lever on the Z-bar out slightly to get clearance.

On the throw-out bering am considering a longer bearing or a longer pivot stud and ball. Will be looking at that today and trying to decide, but as I will be on the mainland for the whole month of October, probably won't really do anything until I get back in November!



Here's some links to more pages........









Assembling The Blower Motor (page 4)

Assembling The Blower Motor (page 3)

Assembling The Blower Motor (page 2)

Reworking an Olds 425 to take a 6-71 huffin on it. (Page 1)

Some Interior Views, Seats Modified and Upholstered!!!

Fabbing A Pair Of Drive Shaft Safety Hoops

Working On The Fuel System

Patching Up Some Of The Sheet Metal Holes.....

Building A Set Of Fenderwell Headers....

Adding A Front Sway Bar......

Twelve Point Cage Build Coming Along, Finally Done....

Dog Dish Hubcaps? Air Filter Rain Covers? Looks Good To Me........

Setting Up The Rear Axle and Suspension page 2

Setting Up The Rear Axle and Suspension page 1

Cutting A Hole In The Hood, and Setting The Fenders....

Installing The Radiator

Setting Up The Tilt Front End

Setting Up The Steering and Suspension 2

Setting Up The Steering and Suspension

Setting Up The Front Axle 2

Setting Up The Front Axle 1

The Mad Frame Whacker Attacks......

Starting to Fit Parts Here and There

Narrowing The Front Axle

Found This Ford F100 Front Axle

Trial fit for the 6-71, a Don Hampton special.

Pulled apart a '67 Olds 400 motor for spare parts.....

Did Some Porting Work on some Edelbrock Olds Heads

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