Made up some cardboard patterns, cut the steel to match, ended up with a bunch of little pieces:
It was a six-pack job !!!
The white plates are the top U-bolt clamp plates that were on the original '59 F-100 front springs, there was room on them to mount the bottom brackets for the coil-overs"
As the axle movement during articulation is front to back, the shock pivots were mounted accordingly, and as the axle tends to move backwards on compression with this rear shackle setup, the shocks were mounted with a 12 degree backward slant:
When the coil springs are mounted it will just clear the brake calipers at full lock right and left.
My new drag link came in from Speedway Motors, so mounted it and finalized the steering box setup:
I located the steering box where I wanted it and welded the mounting plate in place. I had to tilt the bottom of the steering box 10 deg, toward the right, as the steering arm climbs 1" from full left lock to full right lock, 1/2" up (right) and down (left) from straight ahead. This is due to the kingpin angle built into the axle, and the 7 deg. caster I set the axle at. With the steering box set at this angle the pitman arm now also climbs 1" from full left to full right lock and matches the steering arm perfectly, keeping the drag link flat through this movement.
Now I have to find a steering column and get the linkage fitted in to complete this.
This box is solidly mounted, it does not move !!!
So now the drag link stays vertically flat, and parallel to the axle and tie rod, through the full steering range. Horizontally it doesn't, as the pitman arm pulls that end of the drag link forward either side of center, and the steering arm pulls that end of the drag link backward either side of center. Nothing I can do about that. The car is sitting a little high right now, with an even 1,000 lbs on the tires. Another 300 lbs brings the front end down to where I want it, with the leaf springs dead flat, and the drag link is parallel to the tie rod and axle both horizontally and vertically in the straight ahead steering position. I do not think I will experience much if any at all bump steer with this setup.
Once I have the car completely together, and full weight on the front end, I will weigh it and order the springs for the QA-1's to carry the additional weight on the front tires.
I will be using 14" springs, and Carrera offers an 80 lb/inch spring in that length, since it will be a light spring, I can compress it quite a bit for ride height, and set the QA-1 adjustment fairly firm. These shocks have a range of 6.5", and with this setup the shocks can compress 2" and extend 4.5", so if I back off the shock adjustment to a light setting, I should get a good rise on the front end on hard acceleration! Will the wheels come off the ground? Ahhh, intellectual questions for inquiring minds !!!
I fitted in a steering column I had from a 67 Cutlass (same car the steering box came out of), and set up the steering linkage from the column to the box, it functions great, but the steering column is a little long at 33" and with a deep dish steering wheel, it sits uncomfortably close to my chest. I looked at shortening it but it is pretty worn out, and I'm not sure how well that would come out, so am looking around for a shorter steering column.
Here's some links to more pix:
Setting Up The Brakes
Setting Up The Tilt Front End
Setting Up The Steering and Suspension pg 1
Setting Up The Front Axle 2
Setting Up The Front Axle 1
Narrowing The Front Axle
Found This Ford F100 Front Axle
Reworking an Olds 425 to take a 6-71 huffin on it.
Trial fit for the 6-71, a Don Hampton special.
Did Some Porting Work on some Edelbrock Olds Heads
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