55 GASSER FINAL BUILD...... (Page 4)

THE CONTINUING ADVENTURES OF PATCHS, THE PUKALANI GASSER....

Putting The Motor Back T0gether, AGAIN!... UPDATE #1:

Got the motor together, on the hook, the clutch and tranny all assembled, the timing preset, time to put 'er back in....

My slab has a bit of a slope to it, and this load is a bit top heavy, so secured a cable come-along to the trailer hitch on my jeep, and my wife backed the jeep up as I push the motor into position. The come-along worked well as I was able to make adjustments in the cable tension as we worked the motor into position....

She clicked right into place very easily and droppin onto the motor mounts.

I found when I crawled underneath to bolt up the tranny mount that the mount was busted! Evidently when I tore the u-joint apart at the track, the front end of the driveshaft got wedged under the busted u-joint on the end of the yoke against the front driveshaft safety loop and forced the back end of the tranny up enough to bust the mount loose. Put a ss hose clamp around the mount to prevent that in the future....

When I started it up, there was a very loud metallic rubbing noise, that turned out to be the shell of the pressure plate rubbing against the outer edge of the clutch fork near the opening in the blow-bell. The steel flywheel I put in turned out to be just slightly thicker than the aluminum one I had been running before, and pushed the pressure plate back just enough to make contact with the clutch fork. Stepping on the clutch pedal just slightly stopped the noise.

I had to pull the tranny out, was able to reach in through the rear tranny hole in the blow-bell and remove the clutch fork off of the pivot ball, and remove the pivot ball. I screwed the pivot ball into the threaded mount 1/16" and removed 1/16" from the mounting stud that goes into the blow-bell, as the pivot ball and the stud butt tight against each other inside the threaded mount. Put it all back together with locktite and it works just fine now, no problems at all. (so far....)

Here you can see the assembly I use, the stud is slotted so I can screw it in from the back of the blow-bell while holding the stud and threaded coupling in place inside the blow-bell. Tighten everything inside with locktite and put it all back together...

I really didn't know how much adjustment I might need, but figured I better start small and "sneak up" on it, so started with a 1/16", which turned out to be just right!!!

Not a lot of difference noted with the 35 lb steel flywheel instead of the 12 lb aluminum, but it is easier to launch with the heavier flywheel, and the rpm downspeed between shifts is better now. It would slow down way too fast between gears with the aluminum flywheel!



55 GASSER FINAL BUILD...... Original Post (Page 4)

Putting The Motor Back T0gether, AGAIN!...

Now that everything is balanced, let's get this thing put back together.... I have new main bearings, got the Clevite fully grooved mains, and new rod bearings....

Pistons and rods, rings, are assembled, 7" long K1 rods, JE forged pistons....

Crank is in, girdle is on, mains are torqued to 90 ft-lbs using ARP Ultra Torque Assembly Lube on the threads and the face of the nuts, torqued in steps 70 - 80 - 90.....

Pistons are in, rod bolts are torqued........

I use a rod stretch gage, and torque until I get a 0.007" stretch in the rod bolts....

I use the ARP Ultra Torque lube on the rod bolt threads and the face of the rod bolt head. Measure the rod bolt un-torqued, and zero the gage....

You have to do this each time for each rod bolt, as there are minute differences in rod bolt length. These ARP 2000-02 rod bolts have dimples at both ends just for a rod bolt gage....

Then torque to 80 ft-lbs and check. Usually it is 3 to 4 thou. Keep upping the torque in 5 to 10 ft-lb increments until 0.007" of stretch is reached. Most of my rod bolts hit it right at 105 ft-lbs. Two went as much as 110, and two hit it at 90 to 95. It is the differences in the internal friction of the bolt threads and the internal threads in the rods, plus differences in the friction between the bolt head face and the rod surface that cause this variance in the torque readings. That's why a rod stretch gage is a better measure of the clamping force on the rods.

Heads are on, torqued to 70 ft-lbs with ARP Ultra Torque lube on the stud threads and nut faces. This torque setting will increase as the aluminum heads heat up when the motor is started. I want this motor completely warm before I go pushing it! I start at 50 ft-lbs, use a clockwise pattern starting in the middle, then 60 then 70....

More later......

Here's some links to more pix:

Link To Final Build, Page 3.....

Added Some Ladder Bar Restraints....

New Front Axle Install.....

More Mods On The Front Suspension

Put Some Mufflers On To Quiet Down This Beast!

Did Some Smokey Burnouts!

LINK to youtube video 1 : STARTIN' THIS MOTOR UP!!!

LINK to youtube video 2 : LET'S DRIVE THIS BABY AROUND A BIT !!!!

LINK to youtube video 3 : STILL DRIVE'N THIS BABY AROUND !!!!

LINK to youtube video 4 : WARMING IT UP FOR A TUNING SESSION !!!!

Final Build, Let's Get This Car On The Road (page 2).....

Final Build, Let's Get This Car On The Road (page 1).....

Olds 425 Motor Final Build (Page 5)

Olds 425 Final Build (Page 4)

Olds 425 Final Build (Page 3)

Assembling The Blower Motor (Page 2)

Reworking an Olds 425 to take a 6-71 huffin on it. (Page 1)

Putting In the Gages and Electrical System......

First Trip To The Maui Track.....

Working On The Fuel System

Gettin The Front Brakes to Work .......

Olds 425 Final Build Page

Fabbing A Pair Of Drive Shaft Safety Hoops

More Patches, More Patches (page 2).......

Patching Up All The Sheet Metal Holes (page 1).....

Interior Views, Seats Modified and Upholstered!!!

Twelve Point Cage Build Finally Done!

Working On The Fuel System

Adding A Front Sway Bar

Whacking And Welding Some Fenderwell Headers!

Dog Dish Hubcaps? Air Filter Rain Covers? Looks Good To Me........

Setting Up The Rear Axle and Suspension page 2

Setting Up The Rear Axle and Suspension page 1

Cutting A Hole In The Hood, and Setting The Fenders....

Installing The Radiator

Setting Up The Tilt Front End

Setting Up The Steering and Suspension 2

Setting Up The Steering and Suspension

Starting To Fit Some Parts Here and There....

Setting Up The Front Axle 2

Setting Up The Front Axle 1

Narrowing The Front Axle

Found This Ford F100 Front Axle

Assembling The Blower Motor

Reworking an Olds 425 to take a 6-71 huffin on it.

Trial fit for the 6-71, a Don Hampton special.

Pulled apart a '67 Olds 400 motor for spare parts.....

Did Some Porting Work on some Edelbrock Olds Heads

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