55 GASSER FINAL BUILD...... (Page 3)

THE CONTINUING ADVENTURES OF PATCHS, THE PUKALANI GASSER....

UPDATE #4 (this page): BALANCING THE MOVING PARTS IN THE MOTOR....

The rotating assembly shipped to a machine shop on Oahu, where it was weighed: pistons, pins, rings, rods, rod bearings, crank, flywheel, dampner; weights were adjusted where needed to make them all the same (pistons now weigh all the same, rods too...), and then bobweights were calculated, attached to the crankshaft, and the whole rotating assembly was spun on the balancing machine...

The assembly was so far out of balance that a good reading could not be obtained on the first try, but an indication was given on where to try to reduce the weight of the counterweights on the crankshaft, so some preliminary drilling was done to get the crankshaft a little closer to neutral....

I had to build some stout plywood boxes to ship all the parts over to Oahu, one box for the crank, and the rest of the parts in the second box....

Except the pistons and rods, I carried those over with me as carry-on baggage, the TSI guys took a look, but didn't mess with them at all....

I took these pix with my cell phone, sorry that some of them came out so blurred....

We weighed every part, pistons, pins, rings, both ends of the rods, the rod bearings, then calculated the weight of the bobweights to fasten onto the crankshaft to spin it and check out the balance factor....

You can see the size of the bobweights we had to attach to the crank in the third shot....

After taking some weight out of one of the crankshaft counterweights, it settled down a bit and we were able to get a preliminary reading that we had to remove 40 grams from the rear of the crank, and 160 from the front!

There was a removable counterweight bolted onto the the back side of the dampner that was mounted on the front of the crank, that lined up with where we had to take off weight, so that counterweight was chopped down a bit, a little at a time, and each time reinstalled and checked, we found we were heading in the right direction!

After five cuts on that dampner counterweight, we got it down to about 40 grams to be removed on the front end as well as the back, so we started drilling the front and rear counterweights on the crank a little at a time, back and forth, rechecking, until we got the whole assembly within half a gram of zero balance. Near perfect, and well within spec for a motor of this type.

Then we champhered the oil holes on the crank and polished it. It's on it way back home to Maui now. After reassembly we'll find out how effective this rebalancing was....



UPDATE #3 (this page):

Got the motor stripped down, had to scrub a lot of the parts, as the Mighty Demon 650 carbs were running way, way rich when I got them, and it took me awhile, downsizing jets a little at a time, to get it down to anywhere near where it should be. But the idle jetting (idle circuits air and fuel controls) are still way rich and Demon no longer has those parts available for me to custom tune with. Still working on that problem, as most of the fuel used by this motor when cruising up to around 2,500-3,000 rpm comes through the idle circuit, I really need to retune that circuit. I need to increse the idle circuit air and reduce the idle circuit fuel, I can redrill the idle air bleeds to a larger size easily enough, but to reduce the idle fuel restrictors, I need to solder them shut then redrill them smaller, a PITA!!

A green scrubber in the solvent tank and the pistons cleaned up nicely!

Halfway there, everthing is well marked and will go back in the same holes they came out of.....

I'll pack the pistons, rods, and a few other parts safely into a suitcase, and take them over to Oahu with me as luggage.... There's no boat service, except for freight, between the islands, air travel is the only way to get around here....

Got the forged crank wrapped and in it's crate....

Figured a way to stack the two flywheels (one steel, one aluminum), the pressure plate, and the balancer w/pulleys for shipping. I ended up fitting some plywood between the parts then building a box around them, with strap downs inside to keep them from moving around.

Here's the two crates, ready to ship over to Oahu, where I will pick them up and take them to the machine shop for balancing. I am going to make sure the two flywheels, one steel and one aluminum, which are externally balanced, are exactly the same so they can be easily interchanged....

The aluminum flywheel works well at the track, but on the street the steel flywheel will be much more desireable. This motor is a bit edgy, the clutch is quite aggressive, with that light flywheel on the street it is too easy to either stall the motor or burn rubber, not good in heavy downtown traffic!!!

These two crates weigh around 100 lbs each....



UPDATE #2 (this page):

Got the motor stripped down to the short block, and out of the car. Now to strip it down all the way and send the rotating parts over to Oahu to be re-balanced. I will also change back to a steel flywheel when doing this, as I think the aluminum flywheel is too light for daily street use....





UPDATE #1 (this page):

This motor has a pretty bad vibration that I have been trying to ignore. It kicks in at about 3,000 rpm and steadily increases as the rpm increases. I can't ignore it anymore, the motor has to come apart and I have to find out what that is and fix it....

The motor will be stripped and the rotating assembly will be carefully re-balanced. I first did that with the stock Olds 425 seven inch rods (I had reworked, beam polished and shot peened the original rods), but got nervous about using those on a blown motor and bought a set of Carillo H-beam rods and installed them without rebalancing the motor. I am pretty sure that is where the vibration is coming from! A PITA, but I do not want this motor coming apart on me down at the track if I am going to push it to as hard as I can trying to get to a nine second pass!

Pulled off the carbs and linkage, and the blower, now to pull off the radiator, headers, intake, heads, and pull the short block out to strip it....

Then I have to crate up and ship the whole rotating assembly over to Oahu, to a machine shop there who can do what I need to get this motor re-balanced and quieted down....





Original Post:

Have had a few problems getting this rig on the street....

First I tore up the front of the driveshaft at our local drag strip on my second launch, had to replace the driveshaft, got it running again, and on a test run the distributor gear teeth sheared off, or wore off, not sure which....

The cam is from Comp Cams, the distributor is from MSD, Comp Cams had sold me a nitrided cast iron gear to run on this distributor, assuring me it was the correct gear to run with their billet roller hydraulic lifter cam. It sure doesn't look like it's the right one:

I don't know what the gear on the end of the cam looks like, the blower is in the way of being able to see down the hole. I need to get a light and a mirror and try to get a look at it.

UPDATE: I borrowed a bore scope and checked out the cam gear down the distributor hole, it was fine! So I ordered a bronze distributor gear, put that on, and fired it up! Now it is idling at 2,000 rpm, checked it out and found the gasket under the blower had blown a hole when the distributor gear failed and the motor backfired. So will have to pull the blower and replace the gasket. Sounds like this might be the time to go ahead and pull out the whole motor to do some other work.

More later, here's some links to other pages on this project site....

Let's Put Some Mufflers On This Rig......

Got A New Front Axle....

Modifications To The Front Suspension/Steering System

The First Run! (page 1), Did Some Smokey Burnouts....

The Final Assembly! (page 2)

The Final Assembly! (page 1)

Assembling The Blower Motor (page 5)

Assembling The Blower Motor (page 4)

Assembling The Blower Motor (page 3)

Assembling The Blower Motor (page 2)

Reworking an Olds 425 to take a 6-71 huffin on it. (Page 1)

Some Interior Views, Seats Modified and Upholstered!!!

Fabbing A Pair Of Drive Shaft Safety Hoops

Working On The Fuel System

Patching Up Some Of The Sheet Metal Holes.....

Building A Set Of Fenderwell Headers....

Adding A Front Sway Bar......

Twelve Point Cage Build Coming Along, Finally Done....

Dog Dish Hubcaps? Air Filter Rain Covers? Looks Good To Me........

Setting Up The Rear Axle and Suspension page 2

Setting Up The Rear Axle and Suspension page 1

Cutting A Hole In The Hood, and Setting The Fenders....

Installing The Radiator

Setting Up The Tilt Front End

Setting Up The Steering and Suspension 2

Setting Up The Steering and Suspension

Setting Up The Front Axle 2

Setting Up The Front Axle 1

The Mad Frame Whacker Attacks......

Starting to Fit Parts Here and There

Narrowing The Front Axle

Found This Ford F100 Front Axle

Trial fit for the 6-71, a Don Hampton special.

Pulled apart a '67 Olds 400 motor for spare parts.....

Did Some Porting Work on some Edelbrock Olds Heads

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