2Loose Willy's Gasser Project, .....................

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Started working on the electrical system....

I like the Optima Red Tops, have not had any problems with them, been using them over 12 years now....

And they clamp down nice and snug using base clamps....

I fab my own clamps using angle steel or aluminum..... Had this aluminum in the scrap bin, so made up some clamps, bolted the back one to the side wall of the trunk, and angle bolted the front one in, 1"x2" 1/8"steel plates under the sheet metal for each bolt to spread out the load....

Nice close up of all my patches in the trunk, I use seam sealer after spot welding the patches in place, welds about 1/2" apart..... Then I clear coated the whole thing.....

That back clamp is tight against the back flange of the battery base, holds it tightly against the floor....

Added the front clamp and bolted it down snug, it isn't going anywhere.....

Then I installed my master emergency cutoff switch, and ran a battery cable up to it. Then ran both pos. and neg. batt. cables up to the starter location along the driver's side (Olds motors starter on the left side....)

Also started laying out my MSD ignition system, using the model 6 with the blower boost retard feature, also will have a timing adjustment feature for the distributor.....

The blower boost control is pretty neat, I can dial in 1, 2 or 3 degrees of timing retard for every psi of boost the blower makes....

Had a piece of 16 ga sitting around, so cut and bent the edges to make a 9x12 panel I can hang under the dash and mounted the MSD parts....

After staring at the various diagrams MSD supplies, and consuming several cold ones, I think I have the wiring figured out....

The boost retard control (on the right) and the timing adjustment control (on the left) will mount on the dash where I can easily reach them. The rev limiter will stay on the panel under the dash....

Here's a schematic I put together before wiring it all up....

And here's what it looks like before installing on the firewall, inside, on the right side:

Also found a fuse box I liked, came complete with relays for the horn, turn and hazard, for when I finally make this rig street legal. Right now just concentrating on getting it safe to run at the track....

UPDATE:

Mounted the MSD components up on the firewall behind the speaker location...

And mounted the boost timing retard control and the timing advance/retard control within easy reach....

Ran the battery cables up to the firewall, mounted the fuse panel up on the firewall next to the steering column, and mounted a ground junction panel just in front of the door near the floor and hooked up the ground cable from the battery to it. All my other grounds will run off of this panel, plus cable grounds to the frame, body and engine block....

The gages I wanted all arrived, so the next step is to start mounting them....

Then I can proceed with the wiring....

Made up a plate to cover the hole where the radio was, then got out the hole saw and made some holes, cut 'em on an angle as I am using bezels under the gages that angle them at about a 25 deg angle toward the driver, had to file 'em a little to get a good fit but they came out pretty nice.

Put the oil pressure first, then water temp, then oil temp on the dash, below I put the volt meter first, then the boost gage, then a vacuum gage, don't really need the vacuum gage, but thought it was cool to see how much vacuum this motor creates....

Might change that later as the boost is 35 psi and I'm only going to run 5 psi with pump gas. Can boost it up later with race gas if it all runs great and hooks up and goes straight, we'll see how it all goes....

Had a heck of a time getting the bezel off of the ignition lock to get it out of the dash. I think the lock core is supposed to come out first, then remove the bezel, but I have no idea how to remove the lock core, I think it take a special key from GM to do it. Will have to talk to a buddy at a local locksmith store to check that out.,,,

UPDATE: My online buddies clued me in on how to unlock the core and pull it out with a piece of wire, used a straightened out paper clip and it worked really slick !!! Thanks guys, you guys out there are great!!!

Got wires strung all over the car, time to pull the instrument panel and light switch and get them cleaned up and ready for new wires....

The old instrument panel was "frozen" in place, got all four screws out and it just refused to move, for quite awhile....

Finally poured a single malt and sat down and worked with it slowly and it finally decided to move and come loose, a little at a time, and finally popped out!!!

Cleaned it up and the light switch too, and tomorrow will start wiring in all the instruments....

UPDATE: Late April, 2011

............Wires are hanging out of EVERYWHERE !!!!!

Behind the cage bars here (below) I mounted a pair of relays for the cooling fans, and today will mount a master electrical cutoff switch on one of the bars so I can shut off everything from here in an emergency. There is also a master electrical cutoff switch mounted at the rear of the car, as required by the NHRA.....

Decided to add another fan switch, a "double throw" switch, for each fan, to control them individually, left position is "always on", center position is "off", right position is "thermostat controlled", gives me lots of options, but mostly I probably will just run both fans in the "thermostat" position for street use.....

Also wired the fuel pump switch to the ignition switch so the fuel pump is always on anytime the ignition switch is on, can't shut off the fuel pump if the ignition switch is on. But I can shut off the ignition switch and leave the fuel pump switch on if I want...

This prevents any possibility of leaving the line with the ignition on, fuel in the fuel bowls, but the fuel pump off....

Mounted a 2nd emergency electrical cut-off switch on the left cage leg near the steering wheel, where it would be easy to reach....

Ran the 12v+ cable inside the car from the rear battery up to that switch, then down through the floor to the starter location (on the left on an Olds motor)....

Also ran a 12v- cable from the battery to a junction block on the floor near that same cage leg, then a short cable through the floor to the starter location. That will be bolted to one of the starter mounting bolts. Heavy duty ground straps will be added from there both the body and the frame. Any grounding I need to do in the dash will all terminate on this grounding block....

The 12v hot leads for the MSD system and cooling fans are being connected to the switched side of this switch....

A 10 ga lead is also going from this switch to a 12v+ junction block up under the dash above the fuse box, and all the 12v+ leads, such as the volt meter, interior lights, trunk lites, backup lite, will all take off from there....

A pair of leads across the emerg. switch goes to a fuse holder (empty for now) where I can plug in a 3 amp fuse to feed the clock, stereo memory settings, stuff like that, but in an emergency if the switch is thrown off, that 3 amp fuse will blow instantly and the system will shut down. Got that hint from the Ron Francis Wiring catalog...

View in front of the firewall of the 12v+ and - cables going to the starter location....

Mounted the switch in the dash for the electric cutouts. It's a rocker switch, push it to the left and it opens the cutouts, push it to the right and it closes 'em (I think??). I can barely crack 'em open if I want and just make a "little noise", but at the track I can open 'em all the way!!! Running the wires under the dash to each side, then down the cage legs, through the floor, then to the cutouts. Will cut the wires to the cutouts to exact length once the headers are in place, and will put some sort of heat protective covering on the wires under the floor....

That's a new light switch from Ron Francis, I managed to remove the old knob from the old switch and mount it on the new switch, ya can't tell I changed it....

Tried finding new clips to fit on the oem gage panel pins for the lights, no deal, not available, lucky I had kept the old ones, corroded, but took 'em apart, sprayed 'em with battery corrosion cleaner, they cleaned up pretty well with a small wire brush....

This is before I started cleaning 'em....

Cleaned up the pins on all the attachment points, and applied some dielectric grease....

Yeah, there is an old style pay phone in our shop, we have rigged it so don't have to put in coins, but it works well, even when the power goes out....

Had enough good single pins to do the two turn signal lights, and the three instrument panel lights, still need one for the hi beam light.....

I have the double pin connectors for the two warning lights, which I'm not going to use for now, I can use one side of one of those for the high beam light....

It came out pretty good, now to wire those old connectors into my new wire harness I'm fabricating....

GETTING THERE !!!!!

More later......

Here's some links to more pix:

First Trip To The Maui Track.....

Working On The Fuel System

Gettin The Front Brakes to Work .......

Olds 425 Final Build Page

Fabbing A Pair Of Drive Shaft Safety Hoops

More Patches, More Patches (page 2).......

Patching Up All The Sheet Metal Holes (page 1).....

Interior Views, Seats Modified and Upholstered!!!

Twelve Point Cage Build Finally Done!

Working On The Fuel System

Adding A Front Sway Bar

Whacking And Welding Some Fenderwell Headers!

Dog Dish Hubcaps? Air Filter Rain Covers? Looks Good To Me........

Setting Up The Rear Axle and Suspension page 2

Setting Up The Rear Axle and Suspension page 1

Cutting A Hole In The Hood, and Setting The Fenders....

Installing The Radiator

Setting Up The Tilt Front End

Setting Up The Steering and Suspension 2

Setting Up The Steering and Suspension

Starting To Fit Some Parts Here and There....

Setting Up The Front Axle 2

Setting Up The Front Axle 1

Narrowing The Front Axle

Found This Ford F100 Front Axle

Assembling The Blower Motor

Reworking an Olds 425 to take a 6-71 huffin on it.

Trial fit for the 6-71, a Don Hampton special.

Pulled apart a '67 Olds 400 motor for spare parts.....

Did Some Porting Work on some Edelbrock Olds Heads

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