2Loose Willy's Gasser Project, setting up the axles, tires, suspension:

Here's an update for this page:

I got the axles back from Currie, shortened 4" on each side and resplined.

Here I've shortened the axle housing a corresponding amount, tacked it together and fitted under the car before final welding. At 53" wheel flange spread w/ drum brakes on, it fits perfectly under my minitub job, but with the tires at 13.5" sidewall width, it's a tight fit with the 3" lug bolts required by NHRA, about 3/4" clearance each side of the tire. Now to weld up a set of ladder bars and hang the whole thing in there.

The 35 spline axles and the housing itself are a used set by Moser I got from a guy on Oahu that was originally on a Chevelle, so I had to narrow it and cut off some brackets. He kept the center section, so I got a new 9 Plus center section from Currie, with all heavy duty parts, a Detroit Locker and 3.50 gears. Don't think I will break this one!

I wanted the 3.50 gears because the Doug Nash 5 speed box has a real low first gear, 3.30, which will give me plenty of off the line "ooooommmfff".....

I will also cut off the top "ears" on the housing as I want to run old style ladder bars with coil-overs, and a panhard bar.

Time for a test fit, see if I measured everything correctly.....

Here's stuff I posted earlier on this page while I was fitting things together......

A lot of trial fitting of wheels, tires, etc to make sure it will end up the way I want it to. let's start with the wheels I like and want to run:

Summit has these wheels (above) for about $90 each, so I ordered a pair of 15x8's for the front. 5 on 5.5" bolt pattern with a 3.75" backspace. The front axle/hubs I'm using originally came out of a Ford F100 pickup with that bolt pattern.

With this much offset, the front wheels will have quite a bit of scrub radius on them. biggest problem with a lot of offset is the impact effect of bumps etc from the road on the steering when either wheel takes a "hit" going down the road. I'll feel it a lot more at the steering wheel.

I will "Minitub" the rear and remove the springs and it will take 12" wide tires no problem. Planning on a set of ladder bars with coil-overs. Lookiing for a set or I'll weld up a set of my own if I have to. I will narrow the rear end to run as much offset on the rear wheels as I can. Looking at 15 x 12" wide with at least 4.5" back spacing. That will make them easier to remove with the 3" long 1/2" wheel studs I will run in back.

UPDATE: I've selected these (below) rear wheels from Summit, they are Weld Draglites, 15 x 12 wide w 4.5" BS to run with the drag tires, using BF Goodrich Drag Radials. Bolt pattern is 5 x 4.75".

Here's the front tire I settled on. It's a BF Goodrich Radial T/A in 245/60R15, and fits nicely on the 15 x 8 wheel, 26" tall with a 9" tread width and a 9.5"" sidewall width on these 8" wide rims.....

I intend to drive this car "vigorously" whenever and wherever I can, so I want as much rubber on the road as I can, without looking too silly about it!!!

Picked up some fat BF Goodrich drag radials for the rear and mounted them on these Draglite wheels. The tires are P315/60R-15 g-Force T/A Drag Radials.

Starting to fit parts now, got the old front end suspension pulled out and the new frame rails installed, set the new wheels under there to check out the axle width I want, now to narrow that front axle to fit....

Got the rear wheels fitted in there, and got the rear housing. Waiting for the axles to come back, shortened 4" and resplined, then I will shorten the housing. The axles are Moser 35 spline and the housing is from Moser. I will be using a Currie third member with a detroit locker. Final overall axle width, brake drum to brake drum with drum brakes installed will be 53".

That's 16" off the ground, that looks about right to me....

Here's just some misc. shots from here and there during the initial measure/ cut/ fit/ process.....

The used housing finally came in on the barge from Oahu.....

Cut the rear inner fender wells out, centered the wheels/tires, and got measurements for how much I want to narrow the housing

Notice the blown Monte Carlo in the background???

Might need more wheel/tire clearance on the outside. Don't want to just whack out a big circle like they did to a lot of the old gassers (those guys cut the wheel openings out because they were too lazy or whatever to do a minitub, move the springs, and narrow the rear axle......), looking at maybe just raising the existing wheel well cutout, keep the original shape and lip, just move it up a couple of inches, and maybe widen it an inch or so.....

UPDATE: Picked up a pair of chrome rims from Stockton Wheel for street use on the rear. They are 16 by 12" wide, with 4.5" back space. Running BF Goodrich Radial T/A's in 295/50R16. They are 27" tall and the tread is 11" wide with a 13" sidewall width mounted on these 12" wide rims.

Need a bushing of come kind for this end of the gas pedal rod, where it fits into the top lever on the Z-bar....

More later......

Here's some links to more pix:

Setting up the front frame and axle.

Setting up the front axle

"Cut and Paste" the Front Axle

And The Sawzall Attacks the Frame Rails....

Reworking an Olds 425 to take a 6-71 huffin on it.

Trial fit for the 6-71, a Don Hampton special.

Did Some Porting Work on some Edelbrock Olds Heads

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