2Loose Willy's Gasser Project, .....................

My Centerforce DFX Ceramic Clutch Setup Failed!

UPDATE>>>>

Bought a new McLeod twin disk setup. The RST has twin organic full face disks. The RXT is exactly the same setup except it uses ceramic disks. I have the RST with extra ceramic disks from the RXT setup, so I can run either one. McLeod sez to use the RST (organic) disks only on the street. Run the RXT (ceramic) disks at the track. Will put in the ceramic disks first and see how well they do on the street. Here's a pix of both the new organic and ceramic disks next to the burnt up Centerforce ceramic disk, and below that some pix of the new clutch setup, disassembled, both sides, and assembled:

Here's a shot of the inside of the Lakewood blow bell, I think I need to enlarge the window for the clutch arm a bit, front and back, to give me a little more adjustment room for clutch clearance and actuation:

I had originally adjusted this linkage for the Centerforce clutch to give me equal amounts of free play both at the top and the bottom of the clutch arm movement in this opening, with the actual engagement right in the middle of this window, but the adjustment space is pretty limited:

Here you can see where the clutch arm started rubbing on the outer shell of the Centerforce pressure plate when that clutch failed, which caused the pressure plate to seat itself forward, pushing the clutch fingers backward against the throw out bearing, and pushing this portion of the clutch arm forward against the pressure plate shell.

The guys at the track said there were sparks coming out of the blow bell hole when I was doing my final wetbox burnout and the clutch failed.

I didn't realize how bad it was, and there was still a little bit of clutch left, enough to get home, so I drove it home, 15 miles, and I think that's when the pressure plate got so hot it blistered the paint. (see photos below posted earlier....)

Welded all the nuts on the front of the blow bell backing plate where needed, should make future assembly and disassembly much faster.



FIRST POST, this page.....

My Centerforce DFX Ceramic Clutch Setup Failed!

About 10 hours or so on the road, easy driving, 2 passes at the strip, another month of driving, 5 passes at the strip, mid twelves at 114, the clutch let go in the burnout box on the 6th attempt! It was starting to slip a bit on the previous two or three runs....

AAnd here's what the flywheel side of that clutch disk looks like now....

And the pressure plate side....

A close up of one of the ceramic "pucks"....

The flywheel is damaged, I hope a surfacing pass on the lathe will clean it up ok....

And the pressure plate I think is gone, trashed....

When the clutch disk failed, the thickness of the disk got small enough to push the pressure plate fingers to the rear, pushing the throwout bearing to the rear, which pushed the outer portion of the clutch arm forward, against the outer edge of the pressure plate shell. You can see the the rub marks on the shell in the photo above.

The tight "window" of the Lakewood blow bell limits the movement of the clutch arm. I set this one up to put the active movement of the clutch in the middle of the "window", which did not give very much room on either side for "free play" both with the clutch engaged or disengaged. It functioned very well for about a year, until the clutch failure changed the dynamics and forced the bearing back, which forced the out portion of the clutch arm outside of the pivot ball forward, against the pressure plate shell.

This sketch below shows the layout, and the red circles show the tight areas in this setup, at the front and rear of the clutch arm in the blow bell "window", and at the front edge of the clutch arm close to the pressure plate shell.

More later......

Here's some links to more pix:

Back to the '55 Gasser Home Page

Link To Final Build, Page 3.....

Added Some Ladder Bar Restraints....

New Front Axle Install.....

More Mods On The Front Suspension

Put Some Mufflers On To Quiet Down This Beast!

Did Some Smokey Burnouts!

LINK to youtube video 1 : STARTIN' THIS MOTOR UP!!!

LINK to youtube video 2 : LET'S DRIVE THIS BABY AROUND A BIT !!!!

LINK to youtube video 3 : STILL DRIVE'N THIS BABY AROUND !!!!

LINK to youtube video 4 : WARMING IT UP FOR A TUNING SESSION !!!!

Final Build, Let's Get This Car On The Road (page 2).....

Final Build, Let's Get This Car On The Road (page 1).....

Olds 425 Motor Final Build (Page 5)

Olds 425 Final Build (Page 4)

Olds 425 Final Build (Page 3)

Assembling The Blower Motor (Page 2)

Reworking an Olds 425 to take a 6-71 huffin on it. (Page 1)

Putting In the Gages and Electrical System......

First Trip To The Maui Track.....

Working On The Fuel System

Gettin The Front Brakes to Work .......

Olds 425 Final Build Page

Fabbing A Pair Of Drive Shaft Safety Hoops

More Patches, More Patches (page 2).......

Patching Up All The Sheet Metal Holes (page 1).....

Interior Views, Seats Modified and Upholstered!!!

Twelve Point Cage Build Finally Done!

Working On The Fuel System

Adding A Front Sway Bar

Whacking And Welding Some Fenderwell Headers!

Dog Dish Hubcaps? Air Filter Rain Covers? Looks Good To Me........

Setting Up The Rear Axle and Suspension page 2

Setting Up The Rear Axle and Suspension page 1

Cutting A Hole In The Hood, and Setting The Fenders....

Installing The Radiator

Setting Up The Tilt Front End

Setting Up The Steering and Suspension 2

Setting Up The Steering and Suspension

Starting To Fit Some Parts Here and There....

Setting Up The Front Axle 2

Setting Up The Front Axle 1

Narrowing The Front Axle

Found This Ford F100 Front Axle

Assembling The Blower Motor

Reworking an Olds 425 to take a 6-71 huffin on it.

Trial fit for the 6-71, a Don Hampton special.

Pulled apart a '67 Olds 400 motor for spare parts.....

Did Some Porting Work on some Edelbrock Olds Heads

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